Beer and Revolution

Today we toured the Kilmainham Gaol (jail) in Dublin. I'm glad we did this at the beginning of our time in Ireland because it sets such an important foundation of knowledge about Irish history and its effect on present-day Ireland. Many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned (and some even executed) in Kilmainham, and it can be argued that the brutal and needless executions turned the rebellion leaders into martyrs in the eyes of the Irish people, thus starting the revolution against British rule. 

Walking around the prison, especially through the yard in which some Irish leaders were executed by firing squad, had a more profound effect on me than I thought it would. The atmosphere of the jail was haunting and almost spiritual, in a way. It is an interesting feeling to walk the same ground where over a century ago, men gave their lives in the name of freedom and cultural integrity. 

After Kilmainham, we lightened the mood with a visit to the iconic Guinness Storehouse. It is a massive building shaped like a pint and contains 5 floors filled with the history of Guinness as well as cafes, tasting rooms and interactive displays. We ate Guinness burgers and drank pints at the cafe at the very top. The view was breathtaking; we could see a 360 degree view of Dublin from our seats. A local folk band played while we ate and they were amazing. They were a fairly young group, but they knew all the traditional Irish folk songs and played traditional Irish instruments. 

We had an hour or so to rest at the hotel after the Guinness tour, after which we headed to Gallagher's Boxty House in Temple Bar for dinner. The restaurant was very busy, which made a ton of sense once we tried the food. We had a three-course meal; for mine I chose a seafood chowder to start, grilled hake with pesto and tomatoes, and homemade chocolate cake for dessert. I don't think I've had a better meal, it really was that good. Surprisingly, I didn't have anything but water to drink at dinner, but we went out to a divey joint called The International for beers later in the evening. 

Tomorrow, some of us are taking a guided bus tour of the Cliffs of Moher, which I am really looking forward to. In pictures they are absolutely stunning, so I can only imagine what they will be like in person.